
Waking up the day after a 8 hour hike is a challenge. Well, the waking up part no, the getting out of bed part brutal. Especially when it is cold outside. Yes folks at almost 12,000 feet, even in Costa Rica it is cold...try 38 degrees Fahrenheit cold. The idea is to wake up early and summit at sunrise. Well we heard our neighbors wake up around 3 a.m. to do just that. We decided we had seen the sunrise before, and 5 a.m. would do just fine. Dressed and ready to go we grabbed a quick cup of coffee before we headed out to the summit of Chirripo. From the base camp it is another 2.5 hours up to the peak. Up here the topography is amazing. Solid granite peaks that are called the "Crestones" dominate

the foreground. A nice river give a gentle sound of water, with a few small waterfalls in the distance. Every though you are high, there are still tall
mountains around you. At this point you still cannot see Chirripo and it is the highest. We take a moment to reflect at the river and a small lake that is calm as glass and reflects the mountains in the background.
Continuing on we reach the Valley of Rabbits. So named because before the fires the area was inhabited by the furry little ones. Unfortunately like so many things in our environment they too have disappeared. Looking around I realize that this is one of the most pure places I have ever visited. The air, the water, the smell, all very sweet and understated.

This is a very spiritual place. Even if you are not religious or spiritual, you cannot help but be moved. Finally we see the sign pointing us in the direction of Mt. Chirripo. Which peak is it? Do you guys see a flag? I sure don't. A nice gradual assent allows for pure enjoyment. Well almost. The air is so thin that you cannot take more than 10 steps without being out of air. Plus I had a pounding headache from the night before. I would find out a few days later this was all due to the altitude, which I had already assumed. Sever nice rock out cropping lend themselves for perching on the edge and enjoying the valley below. We pass our neighbors coming down as we are going up. From the looks on their faces, it was going to get rough.

Up and over one more pass and there it is...Mt. Chirripo. DAMN..it is tall...We had walked 8 hours the day before, and about 2 hours already and I still have to hike up that peak? Are you kidding me? Refund please!!! But then as you clear another turn, you look to your left and see Lago Chirripo and the Valley of Lakes....what a sight to see. Have I said this is heaven? As you reach the base of Mt. Chirripo, you realize that hiking is going to turn to rock climbing. The trail becomes narrow, rocky, and steep. On step at a time. Towards the very top, it is hand over hand, with careful placement of your feet. One slip and you could be in the lake...floating face down. Gerardo reaches the summit first and has a few minutes to take it all in and reflect on all that has happened. We reach the top and take in the accomplishment.

At the top the views are the best you have ever seen. At 12,530 feet how could they not be? It is always nice to have a sense of accomplishment. That is something that I have inside since childhood, and something I was fortunate to have instilled in me by my family. It is particularly strong with a feat like this. You just have to breath it in. Gerardo had already signed the guest book that rest inside a metal box. He dedicated his hike to his father who loved to travel. His accomplishment was how he honored him, knowing it was something he would have loved to have done. He wrote " ". We all cried and took in the beauty that surrounded us. You have great views of the lakes below; the Valley of Morenas and Lago Chirripo. In the distance we could see Volcan Turrialba letting off smoke. We had done it. As we had a drink and snack, little birds began to come close. We shared our granola bars with them as we mustered the energy to make our way down.

The descent was bitter sweet. Like a child at Christmas, it was over all too soon. However you are tired and not sure how much more you can take. There are plenty of other hikes to do. You can hike a few more miles down to the lakes or take a loop up to the crestones. We decided to go back to camp and make lunch. If we felt up to it we would hike up the crestones later. Coming down, things seem to be in slow motion. We made ourselves hungry thinking about what we were going to cook with the leftover food the group before us had left. Nelson was planning on tuna rice with whatever else we could scrape together. Once we arrived we realized that someone had beat us to the punch. Lucky for us it was a cook from down the hill who was hired to cook for a large group. We quickly put in our order for lunch and dinner. It was a nice change from canned tuna and Vienna sausages. Bellies full, we took a nap and realized we would not be hiking more. A quick shower and off to bed.

Showers are another story all together. ICE WATER direct from the river. It is a breath taking experience to say the least. It is all you can do to soap up and rinse off. The base camp is very basic and completely solar powered. The rooms are bunk beds and simple shelves to store you baggage. Sleeping bags are a must. We put the bunks together and all slept on the lower level to keep warm.

We had such good sleeping bags we got hot. Others were not so lucky and complained of cold. Most everyone is very friendly and in the common area kitchen/dinning room conversations are easily made. Most travels are Costa Ricans'and a few foreigners who brave the hike. It is a form of national pride for Ticos to climb Chirripo...a right of passage if you will.
The next day was our return to civilization. We began our journey about 6:30 a.m. As we were leaving base camp the we began to pass the porters who would take our luggage down for us. It is amazing to me that these porters do this all the time. Typically they can go up the mountain and back down in about 4 hours. These guys just run down. I am not sure how
they don't break their necks. We made it down in about 4 hours. Once down we went to the first soda to have breakfast. We were so hungry and thirsty. After a feast, we called Frank who came and picked us up and took us back to the B&B for a shower and fresh change of cloths. Believe it or not, we were not that tired. It would have been nice to just chill at the B&B by the fireplace but we had to get home. Life to deal with. We are now scratching our heads for the next adventure...Osa or Tortugero???
Pura Vida,
Dennis, Gerardo, y Nelson