CHIRRIPO PART II

After a good nights sleep, the alarm went off at 4 a.m. so that we could start our day. Frank had promised to wake us up and 4:30 but we decided on 4 so we could have that extra cup of java to fuel our hike. Rio Chirripo is like a family compound..Beautiful, with a huge rancho that has a wonderful fireplace, kitchen, and dinning room. With coffee in hand, Nelson and Gerardo begin to warm up the pinto that Nelson had made for the trip...true Ticos. I must say Nelson makes the best pinto in Costa Rica and I love me some pinto. Frank suggests we get going. We grab our bags, and load up in the truck to head up the hill to the trail head. We touch down and are ready to take off. Group photo first. Thanks Frank.

For weeks we had anticipated what the hike was going to be like. On one side we wanted to believe it would be easier than everyone had said. The other side was telling us the fact that you have to climb 14 kilometers (over 8 miles) the first day, it was going to be difficult. In the first 10 minutes of the hike, I knew we had underestimated Chirripo.

It was going to be a real challenge. I love challenges but what had we gotten ourselves into? They say the last kilometer is the worst, the hill of the repentants, but what about the first kilometer? No one warns you about that one. With our fears conquered we push on and dawn begins to break...Did I mention we started before daylight?

This is truly God's country as it is some of the most pristine forest and views I have experienced. About 2 kilometer up,we take a water and photo break. Across the mountain we see a few cabins with tons of pink flowers planted around them. They really stand out surrounded by lush green.
As the morning winds on, things are going smoothly. The views are great. The forest waking up, alive with birds singing. We hear in the distance the splendid quetzals beautiful song. If you are lucky you will spot on..We did but only got a glimpse of the tail as he flew off. Quetzals are very evasive and hard to find, but easy to distinguish because of the 3 foot long tail feather they have. We were happy for just a glimpse. Winding around the mountain, we catch vistas of San Isidro, now several thousand meters below. The sun bright in the sky and the temperature cool and getting cooler with every meter we climb. About9:30 a.m. we hit the halfway mark "Llano Bonito" which also serves as an emergency camp. You can fill your water here if you need to, use the bathroom (a hole in the ground) and have a snack. At this point you are ready for a break and a bite to eat. But be warned. Do not eat or rest too much. You will regret it.

By the time of our break, we had not passed the first hiker, nor did we have anyone else hiking with us. However by the time we were leaving, another group of four was arriving to take a break too. Up and onward, we continue our journey. With the increase in elevation breathing gets a bit harder. Also the trail begins to get steeper. We pass through a very mystical area called "Barba del Viejo" or old mans beard. It is a large stretch of trees that are covered with a golden colored moss. Amazing and beautiful. Also the sound of the Yiguirro, the national bird of Costa Rica singing in the background. Just the trek in the forest was worth the journey. Around 11 a.m. you start asking yourself in earnest...what was I thinking? It is hard to explain, because you are not too tired, but it is building and you are calculating 2 more hours of hiking. Now the air is getting thin, the flora is changing...the trees and plants are getting smaller. This is high altitude. We are now over the 10,000 foot mark. Can you breath? Me too...

In the last few kilometers, you come to an area where once stood large trees but all that remain are deal, charred trunks. Several fires in the 90's and early 2000's swept through devastating the area. It will take years for this area to recover. Walking through it is a place to reflect on how life can change in a split second. As we were walking it started raining, and Gerardo received a phone call that his father was dying. That was hard to swallow after almost 8 hours of treacherous hiking. Taking a moment to digest, and talk about the options, Gerardo wants to complete the hike in his fathers honor. The last 45 minutes up "Cuesta Arrepentidos" or repentance hill was grueling...Raining, cold, and hungry, we struggle up the hill. Once you make it, you see the base camp where we will be spending the next two nights. You are almost there and you thank God. Once at the base camp we check in, go to our room, relax, and try to take in the events of the day. It is very cold and dreary and ...."the sun will come out tomorrow".

Pura Vida,

Dennis, Gerardo, y Nelson